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UPPER MONTCLAIR • HISTORIC TRAIN STATION

De Novo Montclair: A Masterclass in Modern Italian & European Pub Fare

Located in the heart of Upper Montclair’s historic train station, De Novo is more than a restaurant—it is a community landmark redefined.

Read Deep Reviews

“The Best Short Rib Agnolotti in North Jersey”

The Experience: “Beginning Again”

History & Atmosphere

De Novo—Latin for “beginning again”—marks a triumphant return for renowned restaurateur Demetri Malki. Housed inside a meticulously renovated Upper Montclair train station, the space blends rustic industrial charm with contemporary elegance.

Featuring reclaimed wood, brass accents, and a vibrant communal lounge, the atmosphere captures the spirit of family-oriented European pubs. Whether you are catching a quick bite after the train pulls in or settling in for a multi-course tasting, De Novo is designed for the modern commuter and the culinary explorer alike.

The Menu Highlights

Placeholders for your deep-dive category reviews:

CategoryMust-Try Signature Dish
Small PlatesGrilled Octopus with Red Wine Stewed Onions & Chorizo
House-Made PastaMushroom Pappardelle with Whipped Truffle Ricotta
The ClassicsBlack Angus Chuck Burger on House-Made Brioche
From the SeaBlackened Salmon with Horseradish Cream Sauce

The Sushi Revolution at De Novo

Chef Kenny Mar and the Art of the “Pub-Plex” Fusion

For years, De Novo European Pub has been the fortress of Upper Montclair’s comfort food scene—a place where short rib agnolotti and crispy octopus reigned supreme. But the landscape shifted recently when owner Demetri Malki made a move that felt both daring and inevitable: the installation of a high-end sushi bar.

The catalyst for this evolution is none other than Chef Kenny Mar. If that name sounds familiar, it’s because he spent decades perfecting his craft at Daikichi, the legendary Montclair staple. When Daikichi closed its doors, the local culinary community mourned, but at De Novo, Mar hasn’t just “found a new home”—he has reinvented the “European Pub” concept into what we’re calling a “Pub-Plex.”

The Menu Highlights

  • The Daikichi Legacy Rolls: Fans of Mar’s previous work will find solace in his precision. The fish is sourced with an uncompromising eye for freshness, with the Bluefin Tuna and Yellowtail Belly standing out for their buttery texture.
  • The De Novo Signature Roll: A clever nod to the house style, featuring spicy crunchy tuna topped with avocado and a hint of balsamic reduction that surprisingly bridges the gap between East and West.
  • Omakase at the Counter: To truly experience Mar’s influence, sit at the sleek wood bar. Watching his knife work is like watching a master cellist; there is a rhythm to the slicing that translates directly to the palate.

The Verdict: Many “fusion” spots fail because they lack identity. De Novo succeeds because it treats the sushi bar as a standalone masterclass that just happens to share a roof with incredible pasta.

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