There are restaurant openings, menu refreshes, and then there are moments that feel bigger than hospitality. Chef Kenny Mar’s return to Montclair belongs in that last category. After Daikichi’s closure left a genuine void in the local dining scene, Mar reemerged at De Novo European Pub’s new sushi bar, giving longtime fans a reason to return to Bellevue Avenue with something close to relief. De Novo officially opened the Montclair sushi bar on December 4, 2023, folding Mar’s sushi craftsmanship into a restaurant already known for its lively European-pub energy.
What makes this comeback compelling is not just nostalgia. It is the way the move actually works. De Novo owner Demetri Malki told local outlets that Daikichi’s closing hit Montclair hard, and that creating space for Mar was both a business decision and a community-minded one. Rather than imitate Daikichi, De Novo built something new: a hybrid dining experience where a rustic, Italian-influenced bistro now shares space with a dedicated sushi bar led by one of the town’s most respected chefs.
Why This Return Matters
For many Montclair diners, Chef Kenny Mar is not just another sushi chef. He was widely associated with Daikichi for years, and his return carried emotional weight because it restored a piece of continuity after one of the area’s most beloved restaurant closures. New Jersey Monthly described the town as being “in mourning” after Daikichi shut down, which helps explain why Mar’s reappearance at De Novo resonated so quickly with locals.
That context matters when reviewing the experience, because the sushi bar is not succeeding on novelty alone. It is succeeding because Montclair diners already understand what Mar brings to the table: clean execution, disciplined technique, and the kind of consistency that creates loyal regulars over many years. The move to De Novo gives that reputation a new setting without stripping away the core appeal.
The First Impression at De Novo
The smartest thing about Chef Kenny Mar’s return is that it does not feel forced. On paper, a sushi counter inside a European pub could sound like an awkward collision of concepts. In person, it feels more like an expansion of what De Novo already does well: creating a social, high-energy dining room while giving guests more reasons to linger.
The sushi bar occupies a prominent front-of-house position inside the Montclair location, and that visibility matters. It turns the preparation itself into part of the restaurant’s identity. Guests are not being asked to choose between two disconnected experiences. Instead, the sushi presence adds a new layer to the room, making De Novo feel more dynamic and more destination-worthy than before. Reports on the opening noted that the sushi bar took over a former communal-table area and arrived alongside broader dining-room improvements, including refreshed finishes and an updated look.
A Menu That Gives the Chef Room to Shine
De Novo’s published coverage of the sushi addition makes clear that Chef Kenny Mar is not a background feature. The restaurant has actively presented him as a major part of its evolving identity, while outside coverage has highlighted popular items such as the Sushi Sandwich, Chef’s Roll, Popeye Roll, Linsanity Roll, Yankee Roll, and a range of appetizers including carpaccios, sashimi, and tuna taco. The sushi menu is also positioned as a strong takeout option, which broadens its appeal beyond the dining room.
From a reviewer’s standpoint, that balance is important. A chef with Mar’s profile needed a format that could preserve quality while also fitting the operational rhythm of a busy neighborhood restaurant. De Novo appears to have found that balance by letting the sushi program stand out without overwhelming the rest of the house. According to local reporting, dine-in and takeout options were structured somewhat differently to keep the overall menu in balance.
The Real Appeal: Familiar Skill in a Fresh Setting
What makes this return especially satisfying is that it does not feel like a placeholder for the past. It feels like a second chapter.
There is always risk when a chef strongly associated with one beloved restaurant resurfaces elsewhere. Diners inevitably compare. They measure memory against present experience. They wonder whether the magic can survive a change in address, ownership, and atmosphere. In this case, the answer appears to be yes, because the move gives Mar a platform rather than a compromise.
De Novo benefits from his precision and credibility. Mar benefits from a venue willing to invest in a visible sushi bar and let him remain rooted in the Montclair community. Diners benefit most of all, because they are no longer choosing between sentiment and quality. They get both.
Final Verdict
Chef Kenny Mar’s return to Montclair is more than a feel-good local-food story. It is one of the most meaningful restaurant developments the town has seen in recent years. De Novo did not simply add sushi to the menu. It gave a celebrated chef a new home and gave Montclair diners a sense that something they thought was lost had, in a new form, come back.
For longtime followers of Mar’s work, the appeal is obvious. For first-time guests, this is one of the easiest recommendations in Upper Montclair: come for the atmosphere, stay for the sushi, and appreciate the rare kind of restaurant evolution that actually deepens a town’s dining culture instead of just chasing a trend.
Chef Kenny Mar’s return makes De Novo more than a European pub with a sushi bar. It makes it one of Montclair’s most interesting and most emotionally resonant places to dine right now.