When a local culinary institution closes, the absence leaves a clear void in the dining scene. For years, Daikichi operated as the absolute authority on raw fish in Montclair. The doors locked, leaving regular patrons scrambling for a suitable replacement. Demetri Malki saw the gap. He did something unexpected with the floor plan at De Novo European Pub. He built out a dedicated sushi bar and brought in Daikichi veteran Chef Kenny Mar.
This decision completely shifted the operational identity of the restaurant. We are watching the birth of the “Pub-Plex,” a space where entirely different culinary disciplines execute at the highest level under a single roof. I read through our Montclair restaurant reviews and rarely see operators pull off this dual-kitchen concept. Most fail. De Novo succeeds by letting Chef Mar run his station with total autonomy.
The Mechanics of Raw Preparation
Serving raw fish is a zero-tolerance discipline. A cook can hide a poorly graded steak under a heavy peppercorn reduction. You cannot fake a pristine slice of yellowtail. Raw preparation requires absolute thermal control from the moment the fish leaves the supplier to the second it hits the cutting board. Chef Mar commands his counter with exact, unyielding precision. His knife work focuses purely on protecting the cellular structure of the fish.
Slicing with a dull blade or improper technique tears the fat, ruining the mouthfeel. To grasp the biology behind this process, this Serious Eats guide to slicing raw fish explains the exact angles required to separate muscle fibers without destroying the oceanic brine. Sitting at his counter proves that the quality control standards of his previous post remain completely intact.
Bridging Two Kitchens Under One Roof
Putting a sushi counter inside a historic train station built for European comfort food sounds like a recipe for disaster. Fusion concepts routinely collapse under their own ambition. De Novo avoids this trap. They do not blend the cuisines. You will not find Italian ingredients mashed haphazardly into a hand roll. The two kitchens operate as separate entities sharing a single dining room.
This requires a staggering level of front-of-house coordination. Waitstaff must time the delivery of a hot, heavily braised short rib alongside a chilled platter of sashimi. The vision set by Demetri Malki keeps these distinct services flowing without crashing the pass. This operational division allows patrons to eat exactly what they want without compromising the structural integrity of either menu.
| The Sushi Selection | The Flavor Profile | The Execution |
| Bluefin Tuna Nigiri | Pure, clean oceanic fat with zero metallic aftertaste. | Sliced at the exact thickness needed to melt upon contact with the palate. |
| Yellowtail Belly | Rich, buttery, and incredibly tender. | Handled with minimal pressure to preserve the delicate lipid structure. |
| De Novo Signature Roll | Spicy tuna layered with avocado and a tight balsamic reduction. | A rare, successful crossover bite that honors both sides of the restaurant. |
The Omakase Experience on Bellevue Avenue
The true test of any sushi chef happens right at the counter. The omakase format strips away the safety net of a printed menu. The diner surrenders total control to the chef, trusting them to pace the meal perfectly. Chef Mar reads his guests instantly. He serves leaner, tighter cuts early in the sitting, slowly progressing to the heavy, rich belly cuts. This sequence prevents palate fatigue early in the meal.
The Michelin Guide defines a proper omakase structure as a deeply personal exchange of trust between the cook and the guest. Mar delivers this exact exchange right here on Bellevue Avenue. The transition from the loud, communal energy of the Upper Montclair train station into the quiet, hyper-focused reality of the sushi bar is jarring in the best way possible.
A great chef never truly loses their touch; they simply find a new kitchen. Chef Kenny Mar brought a beloved legacy back to life inside an unexpected venue. By rejecting lazy fusion and treating raw seafood with academic respect, De Novo proves its Pub-Plex model works. Go grab a seat at the wood counter, order the yellowtail, and watch a master ply his trade.