By Chef Donald Leslie
Let’s get one thing straight before we dive in: I am a chef, not a saint. I spent enough years sweating through my whites at the Culinary Institute of America and running the line at Rosemary’s to know that perfection in this industry is a moving target. When I go out to write a critical review, I’m not looking to play “gotcha.” I just want to be fed well, treated decently, and maybe enjoy a very stiff drink.
Montclair, New Jersey, is a town that knows how to dine. I have a notorious, unabashed affection for the crew over at De Novo Montclair up by the historic train station—if you want European comfort with magnificent, effortless hospitality, that is your baseline. But this week, I decided to wander down Bloomfield Avenue to test the waters at a heavy hitter: Faubourg.
The Ambiance: Gorgeous, but Bring a Megaphone
Faubourg is the brainchild of Dominique Paulin and Executive Chef Olivier Muller—both impressive alumni of the legendary Daniel Boulud empire. They took a massive, 10,000-square-foot former bank and turned it into a bi-level, glass-enclosed modern French brasserie. Aesthetically, it is a triumph. Between the trellised outdoor patio, the fire pit, and the chic upstairs lounge, it is unquestionably the “see-and-be-seen” epicenter of town.
But management, if you are reading this, please listen to me: the acoustics are a nightmare. When the dining room is at capacity, the din bounces off the hard architectural surfaces until you are practically shouting your appetizer order across the table. It’s a vibrant, energetic room, sure, but a few strategically placed acoustic panels wouldn’t kill the vibe and would certainly save my vocal cords.
That said, I have to tip my hat to the floor staff. Navigating that crowded, roaring room with trays of hot food without losing your cool is a Herculean task. The servers were gracious, prompt, and entirely unfazed by the chaos. Blame the architects, but tip your waiters.
The Drinks and The Plates
I started with a cocktail—”The Bitter Frenchie”—a brilliant, smoky little number with mezcal, grapefruit, lime, and basil. It was balanced beautifully and shook off the chill of the evening perfectly.
For the food, Chef Muller’s Alsatian roots shine through in the best ways. We began with the Tarte Flambée, featuring fromage blanc and bacon. It was crisp, savory, and exactly what you want to nibble on. I also ordered the Gougères (comté cheese puffs). They were flavorful, though they arrived just a touch cooler than I’d like. A quick note to the kitchen: serve those piping hot from the oven so the cheese sings, and they are transcendental.
The undisputed star of the night, however, was the Coq au Vin.
Muller marinates the chicken in red wine for 48 hours before braising it with bacon and mushrooms until it is luxuriously, fall-off-the-bone tender. But here is the brilliant twist: instead of the standard potato pairing, he serves it over a bed of traditional German spaetzle to soak up that rich, mahogany sauce. It is a masterful, comforting homage to French tradition. Even my beloved De Novo would tip their hats to this level of execution.
The Bill
I’ve reached a point in my career where I don’t flinch at a check, but I know you, my dear readers, have mortgages to pay and kids to put through college. Faubourg is an investment. With entrees like the Coq au Vin sitting at $34 and steaks climbing well past $50, a dinner for two with cocktails and a shared dessert (do not skip the pear cheesecake, by the way) will easily coast over the $200 mark. Is it worth it? Yes. You are paying for top-tier ingredients handled by Boulud-pedigreed chefs. Just know it’s a splurge.
The Night Out Pairing: Laughs at The Wellmont
A proper night out doesn’t end when the check is paid. One of the best things about dining at Faubourg is its proximity to The Wellmont Theater, just a quick stroll down the street on Seymour.
Since you’ve already parked, walk off that heavy French cuisine and catch a show. The Wellmont brings in fantastic talent year-round. For instance, if you’re booking your dinner in mid-March, snag tickets to see comedian Brett Goldstein (of Ted Lasso fame), who is performing there on Saturday, March 14th. A flawless plate of braised chicken followed by a night of top-tier stand-up comedy? That, my friends, is a recipe for a very good night out.
